To great acclaim, José Andrés recently opened four restaurants (Rojo,
Blanco, Saam, & Patisserie) and a bar (Bar Centro) on the ground
floor of the SLS Hotel (465 S. La Cienega, Los Angeles, CA 90048;
310/246-5555). Collectively called The Bazaar, the space reflects
Andrés' elegance, playfulness, energy, and love of food.
Serving an eclectic menu, Andrés uses foam and flavor essentials
reflecting his relationship with Ferran Adrià. Serving the best hams
and cheeses cements his connection to the Spanish tapas bars where
working people gather to eat, drink, and talk.
Over several visits to the Bazaar, I enjoyed wildly extravagant treats like his
crispy cones filled with cauliflower cream and topped with American
caviar or the whimsical, delicious sticks of foie gras wrapped in
cotton candy, but the most memorable dish was something extraordinarily
simple: an appetizer of salt crusted potatoes with a cilantro-parsley
dip.