Turkey's Second Coming

by Steve Raichlen
Print Email

turkey-hash-630x407-1Forget about Thanksgiving dinner. I can’t wait until the day after Thanksgiving for leftovers. When else during the year can you look forward to turkey soup, turkey chopped liver, smoked turkey sandwiches, and above all turkey hash in a single day? All this month, on www.barbecuebible.com, we’ve been telling you how to cook turkey on the grill. Make sure you manage to squirrel away a pound or so of the cooked turkey meat for hash.

Our word hash comes from the French verb hacher, "to chop." (Yeah, it’s the same etymological root as that chopping device favored by George Washington, the hatchet.) Hash originated as a way to use up leftovers, but it now turns up not just at hash houses (a nickname for diners) but at high-falutin’ restaurants from coast to coast.

The most common version of hash contains corned beef and potatoes, but you can make hash with an almost endless variety of ingredients. Rural New Englanders combined corned beef, potatoes, and beets to make red flannel hash. In seafaring communities it was common to find salt cod and fish hash. Hachis parmentier, garlicky chopped lamb and potatoes, is classic comfort food in France.

 

Two philosophical schools dominate the world of hash hounds. One school consists of the grinders, who like to chop the ingredients to a fine harmonious mush. The other takes a more pointilistic approach, leaving the ingredients in large pieces so you can appreciate the flavor and texture of each. My personal preference runs to the latter—especially when it comes to turkey hash, made with meaty chunks of smoked turkey left over from Thanksgiving dinner.

SMOKED TURKEY HASH

Serves 2

1 pound smoked turkey meat
1 pound baked potatoes, baked sweet potatoes, or leftover stuffing (about 2 cups)
2 tablespoons butter or extra virgin olive oil
1 poblano chili, seeded and finely chopped
2 shallots, finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
2 stalks celery, finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
3 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs, including basil, sage, tarragon, and / or flatleaf parsley)
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest (grate it on a Microplane)
1 cup turkey stock or chicken stock
1/2 teaspoon of your favorite hot sauce, or to taste
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Butter or oil for frying the eggs (optional)
2 large eggs for frying (optional)

Cut the turkey into 1/2 inch cubes. Cut the potatoes or stuffing the same way.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high flame. Add the poblano, shallots, celery, herms and lemon zest and cook until lightly browned, 4 minutes. Add the turkey and potatoes or stock and cook until lightly browned, 2 minutes more.

Increase the heat to high and add the stock and hot sauce. Boil until most of the stock has evaporated or been absorbed—5 minutes, stirring to prevent the ingredients from scorching. Add salt and pepper to taste—the hash should be highly seasoned. Transfer the hash to plates.

If topping the hash with eggs, wipe out the hash pan and heat 1 tablespoon butter or olive oil over high heat. Crack in the eggs and fry to taste, about 2 minutes on the bottom and 1 minute on top for over easy. Slide the eggs onto the hash and serve at once.

 

Five-time James Beard Award winning author, Steven Raichlen wrote The Barbecue! Bible cookbook series (Workman Publishing) and hosts Primal Grill on PBS. He recently wrote his first novel Island Apart (Forge). His web site is BarbecueBible.com. Follow him on Twitter at @SRaichlen!

Add comment


Security code
Refresh

 

restaurant news

Beverly Hills Meets Palm Beach at Cafe L'Europe
Florida
by Nancy Ellison

palmbeachflorida.jpgJust for fun, close your eyes. Picture Zsa Zsa dining at Bistro Garden or Liz at Chasen’s – bejeweled and pleasing to the eyes. Imagine charming George Hamilton tanned and natty in his double-...

Read more...
The Dream Away Lodge
New England
by Michael Tucker

dream-awayWhy did I love our dinner at this place so much? Could it be that The Dream Away Lodge is rumored to have been a brothel during the Depression years, which speaks of a rich history of satisfying...

Read more...
The Smoke Shack
Mid-West
by Lisa Dinsmore

smokeshakeI am a planner. I never go on a trip without scoping out what there is to do and the best places to eat. We never do everything on the list, but I hate to be bored or to eat boring food. We aren’t...

Read more...
Momofuko in the Wasteland
New York
by Michael Tucker

milkbar.jpgThe Upper West Side just joined the world. Move over East Village; now us UWS Jews can sneak out of synagogue on the High Holy Days and chow down on steamed pork buns without leaving our own...

Read more...