Everything But the Kitchen Sink Fruit Pie

by Evan Kleiman
Print Email

fruitpie2.jpgThe I’m getting a new refrigerator and have to use up everything in one pie. (Apple, Strawberry, frozen Black Raspberries)

Many of you have heard me complain about my refrigerator.  It’s a small old Kenmore that long ago lost it door compartments.  Bungee cords have been doing a not very good job of holding in the mayo, mustard etc.  For the past year the opening of the refrigerator was inevitably accompanied by an expletive in reaction to something tumbling out.  The door’s final revenge was on Saturday as we awaited the delivery of the new fabulous (to us) French Door Freezer on the bottom Amana.

Mom was eating an omelette and asked for ketchup.  I opened the frig door and the ketchup fell out and skidded on the floor to her.  Hilarity ensued.  We felt the refrigerator knew it was leaving and was bidding us a fond adieu. 

fruitpie.jpgMeanwhile I had to completely empty the old frig in anticipation of the new.  I found some unexpected pie fodder like farmers market apples that were not very good for eating but would be fine in a pie.  A basket of strawberries that was on it’s way out and in the freezer (a whole other story) a half empty bag of Trader Joe’s frozen black raspberries.  I peeled the apples and cut them into biggish chunks, trimmed and halved the strawberries, and added the remaining black raspberries.  It needed a fair amount of sugar, nearly ¾ cup, and about a cup of flour.  I sprinkled on a tiny bit of cinnamon and a little grating of nutmeg.  As soon as I mixed up the fruit the deep red and purple of the berries immediately stained the apples.

It felt so good to go back to the familiar and throw together a fruit pie.  I decided to make a lard-butter crust and use a deep-dish pan because I had a pretty big bowl of fruit.  As usual the pie looked great before I put it in the oven, but I knew the fruit would really diminish in volume once cooked so I wasn’t too disappointed that the top collapsed.  When you’re eating a fruit pie with a lard crust you don’t really care what the pie looks like.


Evan Kleiman is chef owner of Angeli Caffe, co-author of the classic cookbooks Cucina Fresca, Pasta Fresca and Cucina Rustica and host of Good Food, a radio show which airs on KCRW 89.9fm in Southern California. 

Good Food Website



#1 Laraine Newman 2009-09-19 05:09

How is it possible that a big shot like you has a fridge from Tobacco Road? By the way, an Amana? Really? Are you sure Ozzie Nelson isn't living in the Studebaker you have parked outside? How is it possible that someone who has written cookbooks, has her own radio show and two restaurants and is a big celebrity has a crummy fridge? I'm passing the hat!! I'm starting the Evan Kleinman Fridge Foundation. Yeah. That's the ticket.

your pal,

Comments have been closed for this piece.


restaurant news

The Hungry Nomad
Los Angeles
by Anna Harari

hungrynomad.jpgThree weeks into all night shoots in Chatsworth on a low-budget indie movie with the same caterer twice a day serving us burgers for “breakfast” every single day (not even I can eat a burger...

Grand Central Market, the Hottest Destination in Downtown L.A.
Los Angeles
by David Latt

centralmarketLocated on Broadway and Hill between 2nd and 3rd, The Grand Central Market reflects the changes sweeping over Downtown Los Angeles. Long before farmers markets appeared all over LA, the Grand...

New York
by Michael Tucker

balaboosta-300x199I had one of the top ten dishes of the year today in the middle of what could have been a dreary day. It was raining and I was limping around puddles on my way to a lunch meeting in Soho.

I had...

Dorchester: 224 Boston Street
by Kitty Kaufman

224 3Last year Boston Magazine named owner Kevin Tyo's 224 Boston Street: "Best Dorchester restaurant, neighborhood casual." Sadly, their website doesn't say when they opened. It's got to be 20 years...