Millions of people all over the world will open a restaurant menu
today. They will look at menus for the food and the price and make their
selection, then the menu will lay on the table, ignored, an annoyance
taking up elbow space.
Not so for Jim Heinmann, whose new book Menu Design in America:
1850-1985 (Taschen) asks that you set aside the hunger pangs and examine
the menu, admire its design. Heimann’s book made its appearance at one
of the best-catered signings in recent history. Delicacies and drinks
provided by Taschen’s Beverly Hills store’s glamorous neighbors: Mr.
Chow, Spago, The Cheese Story Beverly Hills, Vosges Haut Chocolate, The
Spare Room and Remy U.S.A.
The dress code was country club
casual. I was struck by a number of women with seventy-year old hands
and faces as smooth as river stones in pretty summer dresses, light
layers of lavender and other gentle shades of purple daringly accented
with a coral pink or chartreuse accessory. Their hair was sparse with
age but coiffed into cotton candy halos. It was all very Palm Beach or
Palm Springs on Easter Sunday, or Beverly Hills before black became de
rigueur. None of them smoked, not upstairs at the open-air bar or out on
the clean, expansive sidewalk, but their hushed, hoarse voices betrayed
a secret habit, some sweet vice recently abandoned.