I am from Philadelphia, and when I meet someone who isn’t from Philadelphia they always say “Oh! You are from Philadelphia. You must love cheese steaks,” because this is the only thing people know about Philadelphia.
Cheese steaks are embedded into the national imagination as “Philly food,” or “Philly phood” (mad men dreaming up ad campaigns for local Philadelphia business or sports teams love to replace “f” with “ph” whenever possible). Philadelphians bear this and other burdens patiently, but at a certain point, even the most sanguine lose their cool. How many times have I weathered cheese steak-related questions with the same bottled response, which is: the secret to a great cheese steak is the bread, and the secret to the bread is the water, and the water has to be Philadelphia water because otherwise it doesn’t taste quite right.
Travel
Travel
Kansas/Missouri
The state line runs down the middle of Kansas City, one part in Kansas,
one in Missouri. And even though most of the famous barbecue joints
are in Missouri, because of the proximity, you can easily vote in
Kansas and eat barbecue for lunch in Missouri, or visa versa. A little
thing like the state line doesn’'t divide barbecue lovers. Here then,
is a quick run down of my favorite barbecue joints in two states and
one metropolitan area.
Snake Wine
Cruising Hong Kong’s street markets is a savvy shopper’s dream come
true. Fashion hounds can score bagsful of famous label clothing
copies, counterfeit leather accessories, faux pearl necklaces, and fake
jade gewgaws. Gadget buyers gravitate to stalls overflowing with
cameras, watches, and electronic gizmos. On a recent ramble through a
bustling night bazaar, none of the above were on my list. I was
seeking a somewhat more authentic trinket. Snakes.
Some cultures regard serpents with fear and loathing. Not the
Chinese. A person born in the Year of the Snake is considered wise and
cunning. Able to slip in and out of tight situations with ease. A
formidable foe and a staunch ally. Cool, calm and collected.
Strikingly beautiful. Exotic. Sensuous. If one is not fortunate
enough to be born in the lucky year, there’s an alternative way to pick
up a little snake essence. You can eat them.
Thursday Night At The Bini
I know it sounds blasphemous but one of my favorite restaurants in
Paris is an Italian joint. Casa Bini lies just south of the Boulevard
Montparnasse in a two-story building housing the family of Mrs. Anna
Bini. The food is traditional Puglian with a large menu of classics and
house favorites that never change. The principal allure of the place is
the leaflet of daily specials. I have rarely encountered the same dish
twice and the specials always impress so much so that my family, and
most people I know in Paris, list Casa Bini as one of their favorites.
I had dinner there a few days ago with a couple of my cousins and the food was delicious as always. The nice thing about a place like Casa Bini is that you always know what to expect; friendly staff, dusty pictures of the Italian countryside, and dimly lit dining rooms. It is the culinary delights coming out of the bustling kitchen that are novel. My cousins and I arrived at about 8 to the warm welcome of the eldest Bini son, a small round man with a baldhead and thickly Italian accent. As was expected we all ordered from the daily offerings boasting tons of fresh seafood and other seasonal ingredients from the best Parisian markets.
In Holland There are Long Lines at the Herring Shacks
I was looking forward to seeing the tulips on a recent trip to
Amsterdam. I imagined endless fields of brightly colored flowers.
Unfortunately I missed tulip season by a week. While the tulips were
gone, the spring herring were running and long lines of devotees waited
patiently at the herring stands throughout the city.
Pickled herring with sour cream and onions was a staple in my house
when I was growing up. Every night my dad had several fat pieces on
buttered pumpernickel bread. Wanting to connect with him, I would join
in. The firm fleshed pieces slathered with sour cream, topped with
thin strands of pickled onions took some getting used to, but eating
herring wasn't so much a culinary preference as an attempt at
father-son bonding.
My dad passed away many years ago and I haven't eaten herring since.
While I was in Amsterdam, I wanted to try the local favorites. The Dutch love Gouda, beer, bitterballen – a crispy fried ball of meat and dough – and, of course, herring. I wanted to try them all.
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