An excerpt from "Hungry for Paris"
Some ten years ago, I went to dinner one night with no expectations. A
London newspaper had asked me to write about Lapérouse, an old warhorse
of a restaurant overlooking the Seine on the Left Bank—it was doing
historic Paris restaurants, and this one’s been around forever. I
politely suggested that there might be better candidates, because as
far as I knew, this place was still a slumbering tourist table flogging
its past: it has several charming tiny private dining rooms with badly
scratched mirrors—as the legend goes, these cuts were made by ladies
testing the veracity of newly offered diamonds (real diamonds cut
glass).
The editor was unyielding, so off I went. The stale-smelling dining
room was mostly empty on a winter night, and though the young mâitre
d’hôtel was unexpectedly charming and gracious, I was more interested
by my friend Anne’s gossipy accounts of a recent visit to Los Angeles
than I was by the menu.