Summer

From the LA Times

Peaches and nectarines are kissing cousins. In fact, maybe closer. Plant a bunch of peach pits and a few of them will actually sprout nectarine trees, and vice versa. It used to be said that the difference was that peaches had fuzz while nectarines didn’t. But in supermarkets today, that’s hard to determine since many of the peaches have been mechanically de-fuzzed.

Generally, the flavor of nectarines is lighter and a little more acidic, almost lemony, while peaches are richer and muskier. Ripe nectarines can make you gasp with pleasure, but a great, perfectly ripe peach will make you fall to your knees. Still, you can use them interchangeably. What’s good for the peach is good for the nectarine.

How to choose: Check the background color. Ripe fruit will be golden, not green. Mature fruit that hung on the tree long enough to develop full sugar will have a distinctive orange cast. Always with peaches and nectarines, trust your nose: fruit that is ripe and delicious will smell that way.

Strawberries, the most popular berry fruit, are in high season right now and I'm thoroughly enjoying eating them every which way. Strawberries have always been a special part of summer for me. I can hardly remember a summer that I didn't go strawberry picking with my family. At the pick-your-own farm we would eat them right off the bush. Their flavor is so concentrated when eaten warm, heated by the sunlight. Now I don't so much eat them off the bush, but instead try to come up with new ways to serve the fruit.

This summer I decided to make a tart instead of the traditional strawberry pie. This tart features a sweetened mascarpone cheese base, topped with macerated fresh strawberries, all glazed with a syrup of the reserved berry juices and a touch of balsamic vinegar. Except for the tart shell, there is no baking involved. So it's very easy to put together for a family party, picnic, or the upcoming fourth of July holiday. Celebrate summer with strawberries.

Now, let's talk Farmer's Market. Have you been to one lately? If you have, then maybe you have been as taken as I have with the Heirloom tomatoes. They get me every year. The red-orange, yellow, greens, striped and solid colors are so striking. They call to me from their rustic farm baskets.

I love preparing these tomatoes so many different ways with lots of different toppings. However, one of my favorite summer indulgences is an Heirloom Tomato Gratin. I love the varying colors and the textural changes with the soft tomatoes and the crunchy bread crumbs.

I have made many different versions over the years and recently saw this one. I changed a few things up to suit my tastes but have no idea what publication it originally appeared in since I ripped out the page.

It's the perfect light, summer side-dish. You really have to try this, you won't be disappointed.

And the crunchy topping? It's pretty addicting.

All summer long I love to make ice creams and sorbets. I use all types of fruit to create the most fantastic flavors. For ice creams, too, I enjoy creating unique flavors with herbs and spices. These frozen treats are sweet and dessert-like, but they also work to cleanse the palate after a meal. So before the warm weather ends this September, I'm using my ice cream maker one last time.

Typically ice creams are made with a custard base using sugar and egg yolks that are combined with hot milk. You get rich consistency and a luscious mouthfeel from ice cream created this way. But instead of a custard base, this recipe uses crème fraîche to create the rich texture. This French cream is cultured and has a sweet-tart flavor like a cross between cream cheese and sour cream. It makes an exceptional ice cream. But I take this dessert to the next level with the addition of lavender.