Comfort Foods and Indulgences

From the L.A. Times

Many years ago, when I was younger and even more foolish than today, I took it upon myself to perfect the shortcake. I spent a week going through a dozen or so recipes from my favorite writers, cooking them, plotting the ingredients on a spreadsheet and then testing different combinations until I came up with the shortcake of my dreams.

What's so foolish about that? Absolutely nothing (though a tad obsessive, maybe). But then I had to go and proclaim it in print as "The Ultimate Shortcake." And of course you know what happened then – within a couple of months, I found a shortcake I liked better. "Sic transit gloria pastry" and all that.

The reason I'm bringing this up is that I was recently bitten again by the shortcake bug. I guess that's practically unavoidable at this time of year, when the markets are full of fragrant strawberries just begging for a little lightly whipped cream and a bite of something crunchy.

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I have a serious problem with this dish. I am embarrassed to say that I ate 25% of it before dinner was served last night. I am scared to put on my jeans. Instead of walking my usual 2.5 miles today, I am going to have to double that! What was I thinking?

The real problem here is that these are so utterly good, that one cannot just take a small portion. With that said,, eating 25% of the pan, isn’t all that unreasonable. Is it? In the past, I have always made Patricia Well’s recipe, Gratin Dauphinois from her book At Home in Provence. I adore her books and have made many of her recipes, but her particular dish requires one to cook the potatoes in the cream and milk mixture, on the stove, before layering the pan, etc. An unnecessary step. Dorie Greespan’s recipe from Around My French Table beats out any other potato dish of this kind and this is my new “go-to” dish for those nights when I just don’t have time to mess in the kitchen.

Potatoes au Gratin or “scalloped potatoes” as my dad endearingly referred to them as, was one of my dad’s favorite dishes. He loved his food. And he loved his restaurants. He was a carbs kind of guy. Happily I admit, I am as well.

I am a morning person. Regardless if one is a morning person or not, getting 5 people ready in the morning and out of the house on time can be a bit chaotic. Thank goodness I am organized. By the time my eldest wakes at 6:00 a.m., lunches are packed, I have read the latest news on the Huffington, and have had my first and only cup of coffee.

Eli likes his breakfast. Usually oatmeal, pancakes, eggs and omelets, and the occasional protein shake. Isaac could care less(generally a piece of fruit with almond butter or a protein shake) and Levi is easy; oatmeal or pancakes ( he LOVES his carbs). Weekends are my opportunity to make special breakfasts and baked egg dishes are high on the list. The invitation to Kitchen PLAY’s ”Breakfast Duo” challenge came at the perfect time. It came during the week of Passover and during those eight days, eggs, cheese, fruit (avocado), and veggies become a huge part of our repertoire. It’s either that or matzoh and as we are primarily a gluten free home, matzohs are kept at a distance.

The challenge was to create something using Avocados from Mexico and Jarlsberg cheese. In our house, eggs and cheese go hand and hand, and can be found in an omelet at least one morning during the week. Baked eggs are great for a crowd and this recipe, inspired by my friend Nancy, is one of those dishes. Every year she hosts “Break Fast” on Yom Kippur for 100 people. Forget the bagels and lox, instead it is this dish that I most look forward to as I break my 24 hour fast for atoning for my “sins”.

It is a cool and rainy Sunday afternoon in Maine and my sister and I have had an empty stomach for months or in other words, too many lunch-free days in a row. We are in need of something steamy and soulful. With a guilt filled summer of cooking way too many lobsters for the myriad of lobster rolls we make, I confess that I threw out every one of those gorgeous, flavor filled shells. Yes, they are composting somewhere but the shells were underutilized by me. I am guilty of being too busy. I had no extra minutes for one more thing to do, though I wished somehow I could have made stock- just once. So, today is the day...

I have a stockpot filled with picked lobster bodies, empty claw and knuckle shells which I have covered with water, along with a cup or two of white wine, a chopped leek to give it a sweet kiss from the South of France, a tablespoon of dried tarragon, several (I used 4, maybe 5) whole cloves of peeled garlic, a touch of sea salt and a chopped large tomato. That’s it! Let it simmer - for an hour at least but no more than two. There is just so much flavor that can be extracted or pulled from the shells and two hours is more than ample.