I LOVE risotto. It's one of the many things I had never eaten before I moved to California. Never even heard of it in my two decades of growing up in Western Massachusetts. I know that seems hard to believe,
but I made my parents risotto when they came out to visit 5 years ago
and they had no idea what it was. Seriously. Italian food growing up
was lasagna, pasta with red sauce or pizza. I can't remember the first
risotto I ever ate, but I know I was instantly hooked because it's the
dish I always order whenever I see it on the menu...or hear it as the
special. I just can't help myself. I love the creamy, chewy consistency
of it, the homeyness, the endless possibilities. It's a dish I make at
least 3-4 times a month, as it's fairly simple and hard to screw up. Or
so I thought. Apparently, I've been serving it all wrong.
I got a hint of my wrongdoing when I watched a recent Top Chef All-Star
show and Tre, one of the chef/contestants, got lambasted by Tom
Colicchio and Anthony Bourdain, two of the judges, for making risotto
that was too thick and sticky. Apparently, it's supposed to be more
fluid and al dente, spreading out to cover the plate without any help –
like a wave. He offended their risotto sensibilities and was sent home.
It got me thinking. Clearly I had rarely eaten a "proper" risotto and
never, in all my delicious attempts, ever made one either. Apparently,
I was making an Italian rice bowl. I had to do better. And that's where
another All-Star contestant comes in.
Cooking Techniques and Kitchen Gadgets
Cooking and Gadgets
The Best Kitchen Gift for that Toddler
In my opinion a great gift for the little one is a wire push type egg beater. No, it’s not too early to get that little one comfortable with kitchen chores. I say chores because if you strip away all the baggage of cooking “celebrity” and gourmandise what’s left is the truth that knowing your way around the daily work of the kitchen is a big part of a satisfying personal life.
Learning how to cook at a young age is like learning how to drive. The younger you are when you begin the learning process the more ingrained and effortless the moves will be as you mature. I use myself as an example. I don’t even remember being taught by my mother. A woman, by the way, who wasn’t by any measure a great cook. However, she did get dinner on the table every single night of my childhood with very few exceptions. So I learned the moves incrementally, effortlessly and naturally.
It started with pot banging. Raised in a household where a “toy” was anything that would entertain me, I was encouraged to open the doors to the lower cupboard that held the pots, drag them out and bang on them with a wooden spoon made available to me for this purpose. I don’t imagine mom understood that she was making a cook. She was just trying to give me something to do where she could watch me while she made dinner.
Slow-Smoking Ribs in the Great Indoors
From the L.A. Times
The other day, I just couldn't shake the thought of slow-smoking some
ribs. I was in the mood for Memphis-style baby backs, the meat
fall-off-the-bone tender, a simple dry rub tantalizingly complicated
with deep hickory notes, the flavors drawn out with a tart
vinegar-Dijon mop.
There's a primal wonder to smoked food — that such depth of flavor can
come from so simple a technique. And then, of course, there's the lure
of the sunny afternoon spent in a lawn chair with a cold beer while
you're waiting, patiently, for the Weber to work its magic.
But then it started raining.
The audacity of winter. Even in Southern California, we have our
seasons. I took a good long look at my kettle grill through the kitchen
window as it rained, but those ribs wouldn't stop dancing through my
head, like a song that just wouldn't let go.
The Day After
After the Great Sprinkler Disaster of ’13, which drove our guests, sopping wet, to their cars, Bruce checked the forno, our 500-yead-old pizza oven, for temperature and said it was a good time to put in the tomatoes. JoJo had prepared them earlier in the day — a dozen or so juicy red beauties that had been trucked up from Sicily where tomatoes ripen a month earlier than in Umbria.
She simply halved them, scattered them with sliced garlic, oil, salt and parsley from our garden and put them aside to wait for the heat of the oven to drop, which happened around 1:30 in the morning, after the cleanup.
We put the two trays of tomatoes into the oven, said goodnight to Bruce and JoJo and went to bed. I woke the next morning, made some coffee and attacked the crossword puzzle. Halfway through, Jill called down:
“How are the tomatoes?”
“Tomatoes?”
No-Knead Bread
First, it’s important to distinguish No-Knead Bread from No-Need Bread. The former is a very laid back way to make bread if you have no food processor, stand mixer, bread machine or time. The latter is what you keep eating out of the little basket with a napkin in it, even though your pants are a little tight, just because it tastes really good, and look! There’s Ciabatta in there, too!
I have had this recipe forever, in many forms. It was sent to me via snail mail by an old friend, I found it again on line and bookmarked it, but I just kept losing it. Frankly, I don’t mind making bread that has to be kneaded either by hand or machine, but when this recipe appeared in my life a third time last week on someone else’s blog, I decided it was a cosmic sign.
It’s really, really good bread that emerges looking beautiful and crusty and artisanal, and tasting far more flavorful and nuanced than your average white loaf. It has real, shatter-y crust, and lots of texture. I really think you could pass it off as something from a bakery (which is fitting, since that’s where the recipe came from). Best of all, you really need nothing but a bowl, some plastic wrap, two towels and a big pot with a lid. (Well, and an oven). No hard labor, and easy clean-up.
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