A group of good friends, connected by a love of politics and good food, always used to get together every August in Santa Barbara. Life slowed down; we’d cook together using all local produce – sweet corn, plum tomatoes, Armenian cucumbers, peppers, tomatillos, Blenheim apricots, avocadoes, Santa Rosa plums – and then feast as the sun went down behind rolling hills planted with avocadoes and lemons.
So you can imagine our excitement when we heard that Johnny Apple – the legendary political columnist and food writer at the New York Times – was coming to town with his wife Betsey. Johnny was (as many have noted) a force of nature. I first met Johnny when he came to LA to do a feature on Asian Pacific food. We hit three restaurants in four hours one evening, going from Vietnamese to Chinese dim sum to a Chinese restaurant famous for its “pork pump”. I was so exhausted I begged off the next three days of eating. I don’t think I’ve seen anyone enjoy food and wine more (even that third dinner you have to eat when you’re a critic.)
Ice Cream
Ice Cream
Raspberry Swirl Ice Cream
Each week, Levi gravitates to the fresh raspberries at our local farmers market. He insists on buying them claiming to “love them”. He eats 2 or 3 and then he is done. I pack them in his lunch box and a few stragglers end up coming home with him. I can’t toss them. So, I either eat them or throw them in a baggie and put them in the freezer.
I had just enough fresh and frozen raspberries to make David Lebovitz’s Raspberry Swirl Ice Cream. Doesn’t that sound good? I haven’t made any ice cream this summer and it has been on my mind. Today, the kids are going to arrive home from camp to a very, very, sweet treat.
This recipe calls for vanilla extract. Instead, I steeped the cream with a fresh vanilla bean. I cut the pod in half, scraped out the seeds and threw them in the bowl of cream along with the pod. When it came time to add the custard to the cream, I removed the pod and saved it to make some vanilla sugar.
This ice cream is a small reminder that summer is here and it is here to stay for just a little while longer.
Dynamite Ice Cream
Sometimes there are things in this life that you have to eat no matter what the consequences. You have to block out the nasty knowledge you have about fat and heart disease and go back to your childhood, where, in my case, you could find print ads with doctors endorsing cigarettes. Holy Smokes!
The other day, my husband took me to Williams Sonoma to buy the latest model Cuisinart. That’s for another article by the way because it is a cook’s wet dream.
What we hadn’t planned on was purchasing an ice cream maker; also made by Cuisinart. The little devil was $60 and there was a cute cookbook we bought, as well. The recipes went from labor intensive, (custard based gelato), to simple, (ice creams and sorbets). Of course, my daughter Hannah and I had to attack the custard one. I rationalized that it was about time my beautiful 15 year old learn basic custard. We chose a cinnamon and brown sugar ice cream because those were pantry staples.
The whisking and the tempering and the straining all went as planned, then Hannah lost interest and went into the living room to watch Family Guy because I’m Mother of The Year. The mixture had to sit in the refrigerator for 2 hours or overnight. Like a watched pot, I took the bowl out of the fridge after two hours exactly. Hannah had moved on to Gossip Girl because I’m a saint and should be writing parenting books.
Food for Thought
Summer brings long days, hot weather, and a symphony of seasonal sound.
Crickets. Baseball ball games. Steaks sizzling on the grill. Children
playing. And the unmistakable music of ice cream trucks. With
tinkling melodies pouring forth these motorized Pied Pipers roll
through the streets, and children come running from all directions.
Clutching fistfuls of coins, they surround the truck like honeybees
around a flower, then straggle away blissfully licking their favorite
ice cream treats.
Frozen confections come in many forms. Cones piled high with teetering
scoops. Soft slurpy swirls. Popsicles. Cookie sandwiches. Sodas and
shakes. Fruit juice bars. Gelatos and granitas. Sherbets and
sorbets. Luscious sundaes swimming in sweet sauces, dusted with
toppings and crowned in whipped cream. We can thank modern
refrigeration techniques for the myriad of choices available, but the
desire to cool off with a refreshing cold treat on a hot sweltering day
has been around since antiquity.
Dreaming of Gelato
Despite the fact I have parents who eat ice cream almost every day (if they could have it at every meal, they would), until recently I thought I could live happily without ever lifting a dessert spoon again.
I know what you’re thinking. Quelle horreur! C’est impossible! I tell you it’s true. When I gave up my 2-liter a day Coca-Cola habit in college in an effort to regain a good night's sleep (caffeine is not my friend), I found, after a few months, I no longer craved sugar. As my tastes matured, I discovered the savory complexity of wine and eating dessert no longer interested me. Since ice cream was never one of my favorites, I didn’t miss it.
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