Typically the arrival of thistle shaped green vegetables such as asparagus and artichokes signal that Spring has sprung. But last week I was seduced into buying some exotic looking white asparagus and violet artichokes, each of which are much more common in Europe than they are here in the states. Fortunately interest in a greater variety of vegetables is growing and so they are getting easier and easier to find. My two sources? Berkley Bowl and Trader Joe's.
Last week I got a chance to go to Berkley Bowl for the first time. Berkeley Bowl is an independent supermarket that puts the big chains to shame. The produce section is what they are most famous for and it truly is impressive. While not as elegant as the great food halls in London, the variety and volume is way beyond what I'm accustomed to. Prices are moderate, I bought a pound of white asparagus and a four pack of Belgian endive, for a little over two dollars each.
Canned white asparagus have a tinny flavor and mushy texture; but fresh they are quite wonderful. I like them so much that I smuggled them home from Paris the last time I was there. They were just as common and similarly priced as the green ones. Last night I made risotto with asparagus and shrimp inspired by a recipe I found on the back of the arborio rice box. My additions to the recipe were baby scallops, some fresh grated lemon peel and a drizzle of lemon flavored olive oil. It was divine!
At Trader Joe's I found the violet artichokes. I tried several types of delicious artichokes when I lived in Tuscany, but I don't remember seeing these. Trader Joe's calls them Fiesole artichokes, but I'm not sure what the real name for them is. They also claim they are more tender and have less choke than regular artichokes; I just found them so beautiful I couldn't resist purchasing them. Big artichokes, little ones, hot, cold, green or purple I've yet to meet an artichoke I didn't love. Then again, I could say almost the same thing about asparagus.
Asparagus Risotto
Serves 4 as a first course or 2 as a main course)
About 4 cups chicken stock or broth, vegetable stock is ok too
1 bunch asparagus, about 1 pound, thick or thin, either is fine
2-3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium cup onion, chopped
1 cup Arborio rice
1/2 cup dry white wine (optional)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/4 cup Fontina or Jack cheese, grated (I've even used brie)
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
Simmer the stock with the tough ends of the stems of the asparagus. Season the stock with a couple teaspoons of salt. Remove and discard the stems after 5-10 minutes. Slice the asparagus into 1/4 inch thick diagonal slices.
Heat olive oil in a heavy saucepan over medium heat, add the onion, and cook until soft but not brown, about 2 minutes. Add the rice and stir until the grains become opaque and white, another 2 minutes.
Add the wine, if you desire, and cook until it evaporates. Add 1/2 cup of the stock at a time, stirring and cooking until the rice is nearly dry. Add another 1/2 cup of the stock and continue to stir and cook, adding stock as necessary, until the rice is almost cooked, about 15 minutes. Stir in the asparagus slices. Continue to cook until the asparagus is just barely cooked, about 3 minutes or so. Risotto should take 18 minutes total cooking time.
Remove from the heat and stir in the butter and cheeses. Let the risotto sit in the pot for a couple of minutes before serving. It should be soft and runny, not firm. If it is too dense, add a spot more liquid. Taste for seasonings--salt if necessary. Serve with more Parmesan cheese to top. Risotto should be al dente, not as soft as regular rice.
Amy Sherman is a San Francisco–based writer, recipe developer, restaurant reviewer and all around culinary enthusiast. She blogs for Epicurious , Bay Area Bites and Cooking with Amy .