Most people look at an artichoke and think: "What do I do with this?"
But artichokes only look intimidating, they're actually easy to prepare
once you know how. Originally from the Mediterranean, artichokes have a
history that dates back to Roman times. There are countless cultivated
varieties, especially in Italy, where artichokes are enjoyed in many
different preparations including raw salads, stuffed and baked, steamed,
grilled, etc. In the States we have just two varieties: the large globe
and small baby. The simplest way to prepare artichokes is steaming. Not
only is it easy to do, the method also retains the subtle flavors that
make artichokes so revered.
Artichokes make a fun party food since they require a hands-on approach.
Each leaf is removed one by one and nibbled on. Once all the leaves
have been removed, and the choke has been scraped away, only the heart
remains. The heart and the stem have the most flavor. The leaves are not
entirely edible, so you need to use your teeth to scrape the bit of
flesh from each leaf. Typically steamed artichokes are served with
melted butter or hollandaise, but I like to dip into Dijon vinaigrette,
which is much lighter. Serve steamed artichokes as an appetizer for any
occasion.
Now is a good time to buy artichokes since production is at its height
in spring into summer. California supplies all of the United States. You
can find artichokes at most supermarkets. Look for beautiful bright
green globes with tight leaves and few blemishes. The stem is a good
indicator of freshness: If it's extremely dry, the artichoke is not
fresh. When you get them home, it's best to cook the artichokes within a
day or two. Keep them in a plastic bag with a spritz of water until
ready to cook.
Steamed Artichokes with Dijon Vinaigrette
for the Dijon vinaigrette:
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons white-wine vinegar
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
fine sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
for the steamed artichokes:
3 large globe artichokes
1 lemon
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
1 tablespoon coarse salt
To make the vinaigrette: Combine mustard, vinegar, lemon juice, and
olive oil in a medium bowl. Whisk until emulsified. Season with salt and
pepper.
Prepare a bowl of acidulated water: Squeeze half a lemon into a large bowl of cool water.
To prepare artichokes: Cut about 1 inch from the top of each artichoke.
Using kitchen shears, trim the thorny leaves. Cut off the stem and trim
the base so the artichoke sits flat. Don't discard the stems, trim using
a knife or vegetable peeler. While preparing the artichokes, rub them
all over with the lemon half and add to the bowl of acidulated water
until ready to cook.
Fill a large pot with about 2 inches of water. Add the bay leaf,
peppercorns, and salt. Squeeze in the remaining lemon half. Fit the pot
with a steamer basket or rack. Bring to a boil. Add the artichokes and
their stems. Cover and lower to a simmer. Cook until the artichokes are
tender when the centers are pierced with a knife, about 25 minutes.
Remove artichokes to a platter and serve with individual dipping bowls
of vinaigrette.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings as an appetizer.
Joseph Erdos is a New York–based writer and editor, butabove all a gastronomer and oenophile. He shares his passion for foodon his blog, Gastronomer's Guide , which features unique recipes and restaurant reviews among many other musings on the all-encompassing topic of food.