One of the best things about Europeans is when they invite you to come visit them, they actually mean it. When a co-worker of my husband’s found out we were journeying across the pond, they not only let us stay in their London flat, they insisted we come stay with them at their house in Deia, Mallorca. I initially didn’t want to intrude, but once I saw pictures of this beautiful Mediterranean island, I changed my mind.
Since this visit was off the original itinerary, I choose places I wanted to go by looking at the local postcards. One of our first stops was Sa Calobra. My husband and I aren’t exactly sun-worshippers, but this beach locked between mountain cliffs was a sight I had to see.
With directions from our hosts, Lanny and Shelly, which included a description about the road to get there and all the tourists we would find at the end of it, we set off. Not needing to see this natural wonder yet again, they agreed to meet us later for lunch.
Though given fair warning, nothing can prepare you for this journey, which takes you from mountaintop to seashore in 7 miles while descending 2000ft. The road is barely two cars wide with the shear cliff on one side and oblivion on the other. It’s a 30-40 minute rollercoaster ride full of quick descents, loops and hairpin turns that left me nauseated and frightened on the way down and absolutely horrified with fear on the way back up, where there’s nothing but your own skill to keep you from plummeting down the cliff. I couldn’t have driven it; however being the passenger took a few months off my life.
I’m not sure I would do it again, at least without a sedative, but it was worth the trouble. After walking through the mountain in a very long, dark tunnel you come out into the bright light on the other side with the brilliant, turquoise sea to your left and the beginning of the rugged, rock-strewn trail to the Torrent de Pareis, a scenic gorge, on your right. Before the tunnel the only way to get to Sa Calobra was by boat, which must have made it quite the hidden gem.
As the beach started to fill up, we gathered our strength and began the drive back up the mountain to meet our friends for lunch. Thankfully, we only had to go part of the way, since the restaurant they recommended was at the next beach over, Cala Tuent. Unlike Sa Calobra, no buses are allowed, so it’s a place more frequented by locals.
The outdoor patio of the Es Vergeret restaurant provided a calm, cool, shady spot overlooking the sea that we will always remember. We, of course, ordered a few bottles of wine – one white, one rose – since it apparently isn’t a meal in Spain without vino. A custom we were quickly getting used to. Besides I needed a little fortification for the rest of the ride back. We also had to get the local favorite, seafood paella, which had more varieties of shellfish than I had ever ventured to eat before, including clams, mussels and calamari.
I was really enjoying the mixture of textures and flavors – immediately becoming a fan of saffron – when my fork stopped dead. I uncovered a 4-inch baby octopus, eight legs and all, that looked so alive I think if I had dropped it into my water glass it would have started swimming. When Lanny saw what I discovered he reacted with such excitement it was as if I had found the Baby in a King Cake. Even now after years of expanding my palate I don’t think I could eat something that looked so fresh.
Not wanting to offend, I took a deep breath and offered him the prize. He initially refused, but I countered with thanks for inviting us, et cetera, et cetera and he soon relented. Apparently, the whole squids are quite a delicacy that you’re supposed to place into your mouth and pop the head, which is, I was told, full of juicy deliciousness. I was glad to take his word for it.
Was it the best paella I’ve ever had in my life? Who knows, but it’s a place and meal I’ll never forget and hope one day to get back to. Octopus and all.
Lisa Dinsmore is a writer, web programmer and wine lover. She has been wine tasting throughout California for the last decade, is currently working her way up to receiving her diploma from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust and has her own wine website, The Daily Wine Dispatch.