I knew I would regret the Wall Street Journal’s expanded leisure section! Before, I was free to read the home sections of any newspaper knowing my darling husband, Bill, would never notice if there was an article on how to be or do a better anything (even dominatrix sex), but the Wall Street Journal - that’s different. He habitually reads it cover to cover. This Saturday’s paper had a recipe for POT OF GOLD (“serves 16!”), and that is when he said – in a moment of early morning intimacy – “You never made me Pot au Feu!”
A little research shows that a classic Pot au Feu is “comfort food”. Cool! I like comfort. And, that it takes the better part of an afternoon to prepare. That is not comforting! Decidedly un-cool!
Hmmm. I think this WSJ Saturday home page is going to be in our family for quite some time. I have two choices: 1) I could throw a hissy fit, or 2) I could rise into a state of Zen adventure! I do love adventure!
The last time Bill gave me the “you never made…” line was for Melanzane alla Parmigiana. I researched and produced a so-so dish, tasty enough but somehow not aesthetically right. The slices of eggplant were too thick and first baking rather than sautéing them failed to render the dish tender and juicy. This weekend I am doing my own version of Melanzane alla Toluca Lake. Why not call it that – that is where I grew up, and I think as long as I don’t douse it with my beloved Chipotle pepper sauce I will be OK. Hmmmm. Chipotle Pepper sauce on eggplant... News at eleven.
There must be something about ‘manly” men and boiled meat. Carroll O’Connor’s dream evening consisted of Boiled Beef with Horseradish Sauce for dinner followed by a screening of The Quiet Man. Well, how more manly can you get, and as John Wayne said, “Women have the right to work wherever they want, as long as they have the dinner ready when you get home.” (Those were the days…)
Traditional Chinese, Russian, Mexican, Jewish, New England, Irish, Japanese, Moroccan, Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, Italian, German, and French recipes for boiled beef abound, and since I am all for a “man’s gotta do what a man’s gotta do” I might as well give a really good man the grub he’s gotta have! Right?
So, what should I do? Do I invite fourteen friends and take a WSJ chance, or shall I divide the recipe and take a chance, or do I troll my favorite cookbooks and take a chance, or do I simply turn to trusty Julia. Whatever my choice, darling Bill is optimistic knowing my heart is in the right place.
In the meantime, here is my version of the classic:
QUIET MAN BOILED BEEF AND HORSERADISH SAUCE
1 (3-3 ½ lb) brisket of beef
1 bottle of lager beer (optional)
2 Cups beef broth
Water to cover
2 bay leaves
1 onion chopped
1 celery stalk with leaves
Pepper corns and Sea salt to taste
Butter as needed
1 Cup chopped leeks (white parts only)
1/2 - 1 lb carrots cut into long pieces
8-10 small potatoes
Chopped parsley
(Optional)
1 lb turnips
2 lb cabbage
Salt and Pepper to taste
1/2 Cup freshly grated horseradish – or more to taste
1 Cup sour cream
Worcestershire sauce to taste
(Mix the horseradish and sour cream adding a bit of Worcestershire sauce to taste. Chill until ready)
In a large Dutch oven, lightly sauté the chopped onions in a bit of butter until golden in color. Add the brisket, celery stalk, bay leaves, salt, pepper, beer, beef broth and water to cover, and bring to a boil. Simmer covered 2-3 hours or until beef is tender. Remove the beef from the stock, and skim the fat. Add the carrots leeks and potatoes and cook until done.
Meanwhile, slice the brisket and set aside on a warm serving platter.
When the vegetables are cooked, arrange around the slice beef and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
Serve with Horseradish sauce.
Serves 8-10
Nancy Ellison, award winning photojournalist and celebrity portraitist, has authored fourteen books of photographs, including "Romeo and Juliet: The Love Story in Dance" and "Starlet". Her newest book, "Wagner's Eternal Ring" will be published this September by Rizzoli.