"It's all Greek to me" were practically the words that came out of my
mouth when I first saw this dish listed on a restaurant menu. I didn't
know what I was getting in to, but ever since that initial sumptuous
taste, I have been in love and obsessed with this classic Greek
casserole. Moussaka at first may appear to be a wintry meal, but late
summer with its abundance of dark purple eggplants or aubergines is
truly the perfect opportunity for making this dish. For me the sight of
an eggplant around this time of year automatically equals moussaka. And
truth be told, I love it so much that I usually end up eating the
entire casserole all by myself.
This love, however, doesn't come
so easy. The recipe takes real time and preparation, but it's
wholeheartedly worth it. Many components can be made ahead, in
particular the meat filling. The day before I plan to make this meal,
perhaps for a summer dinner party, I prepare the simple ground-meat
filling. Late the next morning of the dinner, I'll fry the eggplant
slices for the layers. Then about an hour before guests begin to
arrive, I'll make the béchamel sauce, start the assembly, and bake.
After the casserole has a chance to cool for easier slicing and
serving, it's ready to be enjoyed with a chilled glass of Greek white
wine.
To choose
eggplants for this recipe, look for the medium to large bulb-shaped
globe variety. The eggplant should have a deep purple color, be free of
blemishes and discolorations, and be firm and heavy for its size. I
prefer the longish globe eggplants, because they work perfectly for
layering. The more plump ones work well when cut into discs for a
recipe like Eggplant Parmesan. Other eggplant varieties include the
slender long Japanese kind, which are great grilled or roasted and the
small round Thai variety, which are nice in stews and stir-frys.
Moussaka
One
tip: Making béchamel can be a trial in lump making. For me, I know it
always is. To create a lump-free white sauce, follow the French
technique of making a beurre manié, a flour-butter paste. This paste
once dropped into hot milk and whisked vigorously creates the silkiest
of sauces, free of pesky lumps.
for the eggplant layers:
3 long globe eggplants
coarse sea salt
olive oil
for the meat filling:
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 pound ground beef
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 15-ounce can crushed tomatoes
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
1/4 cup chopped fresh oregano
coarse sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
for the béchamel sauce:
4 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons flour
2 cups milk
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
coarse sea salt
freshly ground white pepper
10 ounces Kefalotyri cheese (or pecorino Romano), grated
To
make the eggplant layers, cut off ends and cut lengthwise into 1/2-inch
thick slices. Liberally salt both sides and let stand in a colander set
over the sink for at least 30 minutes. Rinse with water and pat dry.
Heat
oil in a large heavy-bottomed sauté pan on medium-high. Fry eggplant
slices for 3 to 5 minutes per side until golden brown. Drain on paper
towels.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
To make the meat
filling, heat the butter and oil in a large heavy-bottomed pan over
medium-high heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until translucent,
about 5 minutes. Add the beef and cook until brown, about 5 to 10
minutes. Add the wine, tomatoes, and cinnamon. Simmer until liquid has
reduced, about 30 minutes. Add the parsley and oregano. Season with
salt and pepper.
To make the béchamel, knead the butter and
flour into a paste. In a medium saucepan, bring the milk to a boil. Add
the butter-flour paste and whisk vigorously until the sauce thickens.
Add half the grated cheese and continue to whisk until melted. Add the
nutmeg and season with salt and white pepper.
To assemble, layer
the bottom and sides of a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with the eggplant
slices, making sure to overlap edges. Spread with half the meat
mixture. Add another layer of eggplant slices and spread with the
remaining meat mixture. Cover with remaining eggplant slices. Spread
with half the béchamel and sprinkle with remaining grated cheese. Bake
from 40 to 50 minutes until bubbling around the edges of the pan.
Remove and let cool for 30 minutes. Serve squares with remaining
béchamel sauce and either homemade or store-bought marinara sauce on
the side. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.