Autumn begins this week, a season that is celebrated for the
bounties of late summer and of the harvest. And for many the season is
best represented by baking. Bread, pies, and tarts have become
synonymous with the season of change. Baking with fall fruit such as
apples, pears, plums, and quinces are a perfect way to celebrate. For me
the fruit that best represents fall is the pear. Even though most pear
varieties are picked unripe during the summer, the fruit can last in
cold storage all throughout autumn and winter. If picked ripe, the pear
is mushy, but when allowed to ripen on the counter or in a paper bag, a
pear can be the most flavorful fruit. Some criticize it for its grainy
texture, but I appreciate it for that uniqueness. The perfume of a
ripening pear is like no other fruit. With pears in mind, I decided to
put together one of my favorite tarts.
A French confection with
the utmost elegance, this pear and almond cream tart is great for
entertaining this season. Pears and almonds are a true match for one
another. Their flavors and textures work harmoniously in this recipe.
The almond cream base is traditionally called a frangipane and can be
used as a base in a variety of desserts, but its most common companion
is the pear. The frangipane uses blanched almonds, which can be found
readily in supermarkets. But whole almonds can easily be blanched in
boiling water so that their thin brown skins slip off easily. The crust
on the other hand uses almond meal to add extra nuttiness and texture.
Made from whole ground almonds that include their skins, almond meal or
flour can be found in specialty markets or can be made right in the food
processor.
This recipe
may look complicated, but it basically involves three main rather
simple sections. The tart dough is easily made a day in advance. It's
quick to put together and once baked is very rewarding in its crispiness
and color. The poached pears can also be made in advance, even days
before. Just let the pears cool in the poaching liquid and refrigerate
until ready to use. And don't discard the poaching liquid. Use it for
poaching other fruits and make a compote or apple sauce. A shopping tip:
When buying pears, look for ones that are firm and free of blemishes.
For this recipes, the pears do not need to be ripe, but instead should
be firm to hold up to cooking. For eating, check ripeness by pressing
the stem end of the fruit.
Pear and Almond Cream Tart
for the crust:
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup whole-wheat pastry flour
1/4 cup almond meal
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, chilled, cut into small pieces
1 large egg yolk
3 to 5 tablespoons ice water
for the poached pears:
3 firm Bosc or Bartlett pears
1 lemon, juiced
2 cups dry white wine
2 cups water
1 cinnamon stick
6 cardamom pods
6 whole cloves
3/4 cup sugar
for the almond cream:
1-1/3 cup blanched almonds
2 tablespoons flour
3/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature, cut into small pieces
1 large egg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon almond extract
To
make the dough, combine flours, almond meal, sugar, and salt in a large
bowl. Mix together with a whisk to aerate. Add butter and work with a
pastry blender until mixture resembles course meal.
In a small
bowl, beat together egg yolk and 3 tablespoons ice water. Drizzle liquid
mixture into dry ingredients. Mix until dough comes together. If too
dry, 1 to 2 tablespoons ice water can be added.
Form the dough into a flat disc and wrap in plastic. Chill for at least 1 hour before rolling.
To
make the poached pears, peel, core, and slice pears in half. Toss in
lemon juice. Combine wine, water, and spices. Bring mixture to a boil.
Add pears and lower heat. Simmer for 10 to 15 minutes until pears are
knife tender. Remove pears to a plate and let cool. Thinly slice each
pear half crosswise.
On a lightly floured work surface, roll out
tart dough to 1/8-inch thickness. Carefully lay dough into a 10-inch
fluted tart pan with a removable bottom. Press dough into the sides.
Remove excess dough with a knife. Fill any holes or gaps with excess
dough. Chill shell for 15 minutes.
To make the almond cream,
combine almonds, flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor. Process
until very fine. Add butter, egg, and extracts. Process until a smooth
paste forms.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
Spread the almond cream in the tart shell. Chill for 15 minutes.
Using
a spatula lift each sliced pear half and place on the almond cream with
the stem end facing center. Fan the slices toward the center.
Place
the tart on a baking sheet and bake for 40 to 45 minutes or until the
almond cream has puffed and is golden brown.
Yield: 8 to 10 slices.
Joseph Erdos is a New York–based writer and editor, butabove all a gastronomer and oenophile. He shares his passion for foodon his blog, Gastronomer's Guide , which features unique recipes and restaurant reviews among many other musings on the all-encompassing topic of food.