When it comes to flavoring Italian dishes, the usual suspects come to mind -- garlic, shallots, and olive oil. Yet, pancetta, an Italian unsmoked pork belly that is cured with salt and spices such as fennel, nutmeg, and pepper, may just trump them all.
This once humble cured meat, sometimes referred to as "Italian bacon," is currently di rigeur. Pancetta can be found in panini with buffalo mozzarella, in broth for mussels, in pastas, such as carbonara, in winter vegetable mashes, such as smashed potatoes, and on pizzas and flatbreads. Cooked pancetta, which lacks bacon's smokiness, infuses dishes with a sweet, spicy, and salty pork flavor.
Sliced pancetta for sandwiches is available at most major supermarkets. Many recipes, however, call for diced or chopped pancetta, which usually means a trip to an Italian deli is in order. (While you're there, you might as well pick up some sharp provolone and Sicilian olives.) Ask for the slab of pancetta to be cut about 1/4 - 1/3-inch thick. When at home, use a very sharp knife to cut it. You won't need to add oil to the skillet when you cook, as it will cook in its rendered fat, becoming irresistibly crisp and chewy.
This Rigatoni with Pancetta, Chestnuts, and Marsala Wine is an exceptionally easy yet sophisticated mid-week meal that will make you feel like you're dining in an Italian restaurant. The entire dish can be made in the time it takes to cook the pasta -- about 10 minutes. This recipe is all about balancing contrasting flavors so they create harmony: smoky chestnuts and spicy pancetta is tempered by sweet and smooth Marsala wine.
Rigatoni with Pancetta, Chestnuts, and Marsala Wine
Serves 4.
1 pound rigatoni
8 ounces pancetta, diced
1 large shallot, thinly sliced
2/3 cup Marsala wine
8 ounces cooked chestnuts, quartered
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh rosemary
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage
salt and black pepper, to taste
1. Cook the pasta in salted water according to directions, until al dente.
2. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, add pancetta. Cook 3-4 minutes, or until browned and crisp. Add shallot and cook 2-3 minutes, until tender. Add Marsala wine; cook for 2 minutes. Add chestnuts, herbs, and salt and pepper.
3. Drain the pasta and add to the skillet. Toss until well coated. Taste and adjust seasonings as necessary. Garnish with additional fresh herbs, if desired.
Susan Russo is a free lance food writer in San Diego, California. She publishes stories, recipes, and photos on her cooking blog, <Food Blogga and is a regular contributor to NPR’s <Kitchen Window. She is also the author of Recipes Every Man Should Know
