Montreal is a city of diversity – be it the multi-national communities, the varied, ethnic cuisines, fascinating neighbourhoods and marvellous mix of people. Everywhere you go the eye alights on interesting architecture (keep a lookout for outdoor spiral staircases along Laval Street), historical buildings, and a myriad of eateries. Of course, shopping the elegant chi-chi boutiques for designer clothes is also an important part of this vibrant city. Bookstores and bars, museums and markets abound whilst the nightlife is comparable to any major European city.
But where to start your journey of discovery can be a little discombobulating unless you are willing to just wander from one neighbourhood to another – clutching a earmarked map of the city in one hand and the proverbial bottle of water in the other.
Old Montreal is the soul of the city where you will find cobblestones, historic architecture, waterfront taverns and narrow streets – home to local designer boutiques and art galleries. Wander along St. Paul’s which is the first street in Montreal or drive in a typical horse-drawn caleche past the Notre-Dame Basilica dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Visit the Pointe-a-Calliere Museum where the beginnings of Montreal are displayed and enjoy café au lait and fresh croissants at one of the charming cafes along the way.
The waterfront of the Old Port is alive with people at any time of day or night – eating, drinking and having lively discussions at the many bars and restaurants. Movies are always being shot here as the old stone buildings are reminiscent of Europe. A gourmet dining cruise on the famed St. Lawrence River affords a truly magnificent view of night-time Montreal, city of light!
Downtown is home to the most amazing underground city – 20 miles housing over 1700 boutiques, 200 restaurants and 40 movie theatres – you go down on escalators and can browse for hours – shop till your drop! When you are ready for a pub lunch and Victorian architecture come up into the lively Quartier Latin where university students hang out, or stroll along Sainte-Catherine Street filled with eye-boggling shops. Those of us who like culture will visit the Musee d’art Contemporain, the Museum of Fine Arts, and Mary, Queen of the World Cathedral located in the vicinity.
Little Italy is a wonderland for foodies like me who enjoy fresh produce from the open-air market where the delicacies of Quebec – fruit, veggies, meats, and flowers can be found. Naturally, there are many trattorias serving authentic cucina and in the evening violins serenade the diners. At Dante Park you can pay your respects to that great man then cross over and peer around the Madonna della Difesa Church, but make sure it is open when you plan to visit! Just opposite the church is the most wonderful cake shop – Pasticceria Alati-Caserta where for over 60 years they have been making cakes, cookies, tiramisu, sfogliatella and ricotta filled Cannoli that are famous all over Quebec. With good reason for I tasted one and my mouth was filled with ambrosia, food for gods and godesses!
I found my way to La Fromagerie Hamel truly a feast for the eyes and definitely for the tummy! 450 cheeses from all around the world fill the store, plus local wines and Ice Cider developed in Quebec and made from apples picked after the first frost. Sample the liquors made from small fruit – cloudberries and blueberries, blackcurrant, maple eau de vie, still cider and apple brandy!
Parks abound where you can wander amidst the peace and tranquillity of Mother Nature – Mount Royal Park, the Big Park in the middle of the city, or enjoy outdoor music and dance performances at La Fontaine Park – after all, Montreal is the home of Cirque du Soleil. A well kept secret in Vieux-Montreal are the exquisite gardens of Basilica Notre-Dame and the garden terrace of Le Saint-Sulpice Hotel, its restaurant overlooking the ancient trees of the Sulpician Priests’ estate next door. The Botanical Gardens are delightful with regional flowers and vegetation, and recommended is the steep but worthwhile climb up Mont-Royal to visit St. Joseph’s Oratory – then, during the winter, why not cross-country ski or toboggan down the mountain.
A very special restaurant is Europea and the reason for this is Chef Jerome Ferrer’s passion about his food. Passion combined with a joyful spirit, impeccable service and incomparable cuisine add up to perfection. Ferrer’s handling of his staff is a joy to watch and they, in turn, offer superb service to their patrons. Born in Catalina, Spain, Ferrer, like many young European boys, spent much time in his mother’s kitchen learning to love the gifts offered by the good earth – veggies, fruit, herbs, salads – and how to prepare them. In 2001, he opened Europea and became known in Montreal for his “sunshine food” a wonderful mix of Quebec, Italian and Catalan influenced by those cultures.
Using only top quality and seasonal products, his cuisine earned him ‘Chef of the Year 2007’and Chef du Quebec’. Now be it catering lavish parties, cooking for his friends and, always, preparing incredible cuisine for new and regular local lunch and dinner guests in the beautiful setting of this fine restaurant, Ferrer has achieved the ultimate. But, as he told me, creating new and wonderful dishes is a never-ending journey – one that he intends to keep on doing in his inimitable way.
Tasting menus are a wonderful way to sample Chef Ferrer’s cuisine. Start with a lobster cream Cappuccino and truffle oil, followed by roasted scallop and langoustine in a delicate veal broth. Local pan-fried foie gras over truffled celeriac puree, with pineapple chutney and homemade confit leg of duck and paille potatoes. Then a light CO2 foam prepared with Caesar salad before enjoying a tender beef filet with parmesan cheese, fondant potatoes and braised shallots or roasted Alaska crab legs with a garlic and butter, fava beans and chorizo sausage. End this delicious repast with hot goat’s cheese crumble with pistachios and organic figs, or chocolate ravioli, suzette caramel and orange zest.
Modavie is a fun place to dine with live jazz and a sit-around bar to drink or enjoy really good Mediterranean food – steaks, chops, and salads par excellence! There are great selections of wines and cocktails too.
You must visit the famed Casino de Montreal – a gambling joint of immense proportions run by the Quebec Government and situated on the banks of the Saint Lawrence River. It is housed in the former French Pavilion of the 1967 Montreal World’s Fair and besides gaming, you can enjoy top-flight shows with well-known artists. But the piece de resistance is the famed 5-diamond restaurant Nuances serving superb seasonal cuisine and exceptional wines – truly a gastronomic treat. The quality and perfection of the food, the exquisite table settings, interior decoration – especially the lighting, and dedicated servers add to the ambiance of this great dining experience.
Starters like a delicate risotto cake with paprika, a tiny cup of truffle oil with cream; taboulet infused with mint oil and a sliver of cucumber; duck foie gras pan fried with peaches and vanilla, or grilled scallops with shallots and curried cauliflower. For entrees choose from halibut wrapped in prosciutto with the added hint of truffle oil; roasted veal tenderloin served with a sweetbread and artichoke ravioli or pan-fried lobster, root vegetable risotto and lobster cream. The ‘menu du plaisir’ offers Yukon gold potato crisp and house-smoked salmon, foie gras with truffled brioche, risotto with herbs or organic chicken breast and truffled mousseline parsnips. Desserts like figs, mascarpone cream and spiced genoa cake, floating islands with Szechwan pepper, sweet Breton pastry with red berry fruit, verbena sauce and strawberry esquimau, or warm chocolate cake with a creamy vanilla centre and maple ice cream. Choose the Chef’s surprise Menu 95 in five acts and trust the Executive Chef, Jean-Pierre Curtat to do his magic especially for you.
There are many hotels, small and large, B&B’s, and guest houses in every neighbourhood to choose from. I recommend the Sainte Sulpice in Vieux Montreal, close to the Old Port as well as many art galleries and European-style cafes. Opened in 2002, this beautiful hotel’s signature is the very large bedrooms or suites featuring fireplaces, their own separate sitting room and fully equipped kitchenette. Women, be they on business or vacation, will be very happy enjoying the luxurious bathrooms, lush towels and body pampering creams and oils.
This very European type hotel also offers a fully equipped Business Centre, Health and Fitness Centre, Concierge and 24 hour room service. The S Le Restaurant specializes in steaks, seafood and delicacies of the region and inside is stylishly elegant, but during the summer months the terrace with wicker chairs, water fountains, flowers and foliage is a most romantic place to lunch or dine for locals and hotel guests alike.
The history of Montreal in Quebec started with the Algonquin, Huron and Iroquois tribes of North America. In 1535, Jacques Cartier became the first European to reach the area now known as Hochelaga while in seach of the Northwest Passage and gold. Samuel de Champlain tried to create a fur trading post in 1605 but was stopped by the local Iroquois Indians defending their land. A mission named Villa Maria was built in 1642 attempting to create a French colonial empire and, at first; it was a Utopia where Indians and French lived side by side in peace. However, with the coming of the British in 1760, the migration of Scottish, Irish and English people brought its own disturbing effect until things settled down and all parties agreed to live in harmony sharing cultural heritages. Now Montreal welcomes people from all over the world with a tolerance towards religion, various cultures and cuisines but for those of my readers interested in walking the historical walk, the fountain square in Vieux-Montreal in the shadow of Notre-Dame Basilica is the location of the first well in the French Colony.