Dean and DeLuca
Dean and DeLuca

The Best Pork Dish in America

by Michael Tucker
Print Email

m.-wells-dinette-300x225That’s a loaded statement so let me describe the dish before we go any further. It’s a pot of clam chowder — with a light cream base — with succulent, dinner-sized hunks of pork, rosy-pink and tender as a clam, floating in the broth. You spear the pork onto your plate with a fork and then ladle up the soup from the bottom of the pot where the spiced and diced potatoes, clams and vegetables are lurking. Oh baby, oh baby.

This all took place at MoMA P.S.1 in Queens where we caught an early dinner at the M. Well’s Dinette, which serves as the museum’s commissary. It’s not easy to catch dinner there because the Dinette is not open for dinner, but I guess we qualified as a very late lunch.

Whatever.

The M. Well’s Dinette is the second incarnation of this concept from Hugue Dufour and Sarah Obraitis, who are partners in life and business. Hugue came to New York via Montreal’s Au Pied De Cochon and first opened M. Wells, where he dazzled and shocked New Yorkers with his fun, fat and filling take on the eating experience.

tower-of-chickensThe dinette offers more of the same. We opened with a seriously flavorful mushroom soup; then a beautiful plate of vegetables and whole grain for Jilly, the vegan; then a most amazing version of Caesar salad with broccoli florets instead of romaine, fresh-fried chunks of bread, a herring-based dressing in place of anchovy and a “snow shower of parmigiano,” said the waiter. And a snow shower it was. Great dish.

Then there was a tower of chickens — three chickens impaled on a long knife, standing straight up with the hilt facing the ceiling. I don’t remember too much about this dish because we were into some red wine at that point.

Then came the clam chowder with the pink pork, which I have no photo of because I was busy.

It was all great and yes, a bit much — but I like that in a chef.

The menu changes whenever Hugue and Sarah want it to. They seem to be having a lot of fun, they’re not afraid of fat and they get to go home after lunch. Hmm.

M. WELLS DINETTE - MoMA PS1, 22-25 Jackson Avenue, Long Island City, NY 11101

 

Michael Tucker is an actor and author whose recent novel is "After Annie."  He writes about his love of food on his blog Notes from a Culinary Wasteland.

Add comment


Security code
Refresh

Restaurant News

A.O.C. Wine Bar
Los Angeles
by Sharon Oreck

Suzanne Goin, the uber-talented celebrity chef of Lucques and A.O.C. Wine Bar fame, was rumored to be the front runner for the 2005 James Beard Chef-of-the-Year award, and as far as I was...

Read more...
Hot? How About a Milkshake at Pono Burger?
Los Angeles
by Evan Kleiman

PonoStrawberry-MilkshakeOn this very hot day I can’t stop thinking about the strawberry milkshake I inhaled for dessert at Pono Burger a couple weeks back. Strawberry was all time childhood ice cream fave flavor.

But...

Read more...
New Shanghai Seems Like Old Times
Boston
by Kitty Kaufman

playmepianoThings we like about Chinatown: it's close, you can park on the street and there's always adventure. This is one of those days: not only do we park but there's a piano on the sidewalk under the...

Read more...
buccan
Florida
by Nancy Ellison

buccanlounge.jpg

If ever there is a restaurant – cool and hot at the same time – that belongs somewhere wondrous like in LA, buccan is it. Unbelievable beyond adjectives and totally filled with great vibes,...

Read more...