Las Vegas

Vegas. Why'd it have to be Vegas? I happily avoided going there for about 8 years. No real point since I don't gamble. Might as well just burn your money, since you're not going to win. What else is there to do there that I can't in LA - another entertainment-rich, overcrowded, traffic-filled city? I wasn't getting out of the trip, so I decided to make the most of it…for me. And that was to eat the best meal possible on our only free night. If our other friends wanted to come along cool, but this one was for me.

Their are innumerable choices with the high-end filled with the fancy outposts of many, many world-renowned celebrity chefs. I just had to decide which one. Being a big Top Chef fan I wanted to eat at Tom Colicchio's place, but there are no prices on the menu, so that was immediately out.  Big pet peeve of mine, intentional by them I've no doubt. Emeril's menus didn't overly excite me. Wolfgang I can get in LA if I want, along with Piero Selvaggio's Valentino. Not enough of a seafood fan to drop the coin at Rick Moonen's RM Seafood, though I was tempted. Perhaps he could change my mind about fish. Another time, though.

There was only one place that it could be. One by Mario. I've watched him  on TV and read so much about his food over the years, that I just had to see what all the fuss was about. Of course, I've eaten at the various Mozza incarnations, and they are divine, but I think that has more to do with Nancy Silverton than Batali and Bastianich.  So I booked a table at B and B Ristorante, which is said to be very similar to the food served at Babbo in NY, to see what the Bs actually brought to the table.

The Nugget Diner in Reno, Nevada represents much of what Reno is all about. From a run down strip near downtown Reno, one enters through the gaudy exterior, which portrays a nugget of gold glistening in the sun. The Metallic rendering of the shining nugget is preserved from an earlier time. After entering the door, you see a seedy bar and rows of slot machines. Nestled in the back under a little red sign that says “Diner”, awaits the Awful-Awful.

The Awful-Awful ($6.00) is a half-pound burger that sits on an onion bun. Called the Awful-Awful because it is awful big and awful good, the burger is indeed an impressive stack when you add in the lettuce, tomato, onion and the Thousand Island-style sauce. The burger sits on top of one pound of fries, seasoned and cut thin. It is rare to find both fries and burgers this good, especially at that price.

The burgers are griddled and greasy, but in the right way. The meat is seasoned with pepper and has a great flavor. American cheese blends well with the whole stack. The grilled onion bun is fantastic as it holds together the entire production.

It's not about over-abundance, although it sort of is. I'm not the kind of person who loads their plate up full to the brim -- in fact, I don't even like it when my food groups touch, although that's part of it, too, I guess, the fact that you can have multiple plates, like as many as you want. Like an egg plate (any omelet you want, scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage) and a fish plate (high-end fish, like Nova Scotia salmon and seared albacore and shrimp) and a fruit plate and a turkey plate (if you actually wanted roast turkey and all the trimmings for breakfast) and a konchee plate, whatever that custardy konchee stuff is (and I'm not even sure I'm spelling it right) and a sushi plate, made fresh there right at the bar, and I don't even want to discuss the dessert plate although I have to mention the candy apple.